How to maintain your mountain bike fork

Unfortunately, too many riders neglect this point. fork is an important part of your bike's frame and is under constant stress when you're riding.

Time: 3h30
Level : Very difficult
Tools : Allen wrench set | Tire iron | Clean rag | Wiper seal installation tool | Socket wrench | Measuring glass | Fork oil | Seal/fork grease | Outer seal (or scraper) kit

Data may vary from one manufacturer to another, but you can remember these intervals:

Before each ride : check the cleanliness, condition and lubrication of your divers
Every 40 hours (~20 outings): drain theoil hydraulic cartridge, replace wiper seals
Every 100 hours (~50 trips): drain and replace gasket kit complete

The 100-hour overhaul is quite a big job, so we recommend you have it done by a specialist, but here's how to do the 40-hour overhaul yourself.

Please note: this procedure is only valid for open-bath*" cartridgesFor forks, open-bath hydraulic cartridges are simpler to design and therefore easier to maintain.. For closed* cartridgesFor forks, "closed" hydraulic cartridges are designed to isolate the oil from the air in order to prevent emulsification and improve hydraulic performance. (FIT*Top-of-the-range sealed cartridge system offering three instantaneous positions for compression damping (open, medium and firm) to adapt to different terrains. or Open Cartridge*Easy-to-adjust and maintain hydraulic cartridge for smooth, reliable operation. at Fox, Charger Damper*Charger Damper with high-efficiency circuitry (Pedal and Lock mode) for optimum downhill performance while maintaining the pedaling stability required for intense uphill climbs, and offering improved sensitivity to small bumps. With other brands (Rockshox, etc...), the operation is much more complicated, and we recommend that you have it done by a specialist.

Steps

Caution: depending on the fork model, some steps may vary, so it's best to consult the manufacturer's manual, often found on the brand's website.

For an air fork, fully deflate the chamber; for a coil-spring fork, remove the cap at the top of the spring-side plunger.
Remove the adjusting knobs and screws at the bottom of the forks. Leave them engaged for a few turns, then tap them with a mallet to "unstick" the cartridges from the forks. Then remove the screws. Note that a small quantity of oil will come out of these holes.
Separate the plungers from the sheaths by pulling on them firmly.
Using a tire iron, remove the wiper seals and foams from the sheaths.
Clean the inside of the sheaths and seal housing with a clean cloth.
Install the new foams, soaked in fork oil, then reassemble the greased wiper seals using the installation tool and a mallet if necessary.
On the plunger section, remove the adjustment knobs and caps, then empty the oil into a measuring cup to check the quantity of oil required for reassembly. Operate the plunger 1 or 2 times to drain off all the oil.
Probikeshop tip: perform this operation one plunger at a time.
Fill the plungers with the new oil. For viscosity and quantity, refer to the manufacturer's instructions and check with the quantity of oil you took out.
Refit the top caps, then the adjustment knobs.
Clean the plungers with the clean cloth, then grease the wiper seals thoroughly.
Reassemble the plungers in the sheaths, ensuring that the wiper seals slide smoothly along the plungers.
Before fully assembling the two parts, insert the suspension fluid through the bottom holes of the sleeves, then push the plungers in completely.
Refit the screws and knobs at the bottom of the sleeves.
For an air fork, set the correct pressure for your weight. In the case of a coil-spring fork, remount it.
Probikeshop tip: Operate the fork a few times by hand to check that everything's running smoothly.