For MTB hydraulic brakes that use mineral brake fluid, bleeding is necessary if you feel a loss of performance. Here's how to do it yourself on your ATV.
- Time: 1h00
- Level : Difficult
- Tools : Purge kit / Mineral fluid / 2.5 mm Allen wrench / 7 mm open-end wrench / Screwdriver
Steps
Reminder: Depending on the brake model, the procedure may change. It's best to consult the manufacturer's manual beforehand.
- Replace pads with the bleed wedge.
- Position the brake lever at 45° to the horizontal.
- Remove the bleed screw from the lever, then fit the funnel without the stem/cap.
- Place the syringe, previously filled with at least 10 ml of mineral liquid, onto the bleed screw on the caliper.
- Open the bleed screw with the wrench, then drain the circuit by pressing on the syringe. The liquid will flow back up through the funnel.
- Temporarily close the bleed screw when you can no longer see bubbles coming out of the funnel, then remove the syringe from the caliper.
- Now place the hose with the collection bag on the caliper and open the bleed screw.
- Tap the caliper with the handle of a screwdriver to loosen the bubbles as the fluid flows out. Caution: during this operation, the level in the funnel will drop, so be sure to fill it with brake fluid to prevent air from entering the circuit.
- Temporarily close the bleed screw when no more bubbles are visible in the connected hose.
- Actuate and hold the brake lever, then quickly open and close the bleed screw several times (for about half a second each time) to evacuate any remaining air bubbles. Close the bleed screw before the lever reaches the end of its travel.
- Actuate the brake lever several times to force any bubbles back up into the funnel.
Probikeshop tip: the lever should be or become hard at this stage.
- Position the lever horizontally, then repeat step 11.
- Remove the plugged funnel with the rod/plug.
- Replace the lever bleed screw.
- Wipe off all traces of oil.
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